Always looking for her next Japanese fix, Editor Sophie Ritchie takes Miyako’s new bottomless Saturday Sumo for a taste drive in City
When it comes to sushi, I’ve been known to have a sumo appetite. I have distinct memories of once ordering so many plates at a Brighton Japanese restaurant that they began to stack up like colourful skyscrapers on the table. And, the unfortunate recollection of going ice skating immediately after and needing to sit down for the majority of it, being too full to get around the rink.
Salmon maki, tuna sashimi, bowls of steaming miso soup – the thought alone makes me salivate like a Pavlovian dog. So when I was offered the chance to visit Miyako, the little Japanese eatery tucked away in the middle of City, me and my chopsticks jumped at the chance.
One of London’s most popular sushi haunts, located a few steps from Liverpool Street Station, Miyako is known for its authentic dining experience courtesy of Head Chef Kosei Sakamoto. Part of the five-star Andaz hotel (although it has a separate entrance) inside awaits minimalist decor with dark wooden tables in an intimate environment.
Available on Saturdays only, its recently introduced a brand new ‘Saturday Sumo’ menu – offering a bottomless selection of select dishes, desserts and drinks. Alas, the gluttony has been reigned in through careful T&C’s – guests can only order three dishes at a time, with a 1.5hour limit on the Far East feasting. Two words – challenge accepted.
The Food & Drink
The menu offers a fairly wide choice of options, with a mix of different rolls, sushis and hot dishes to try. Being able to only choose a trio at a time means ordering takes serious thought consideration – you don’t want to make a wrong maki move.
I start with miso soup, pickles and a salmon sushi to get things started, as does my friend. It arrives at the same time and quickly – there’s not long to wait before we first dig in. The soup is hot and brimming with salty tang – but whilst there’s plenty of pickles on the tray, the single salmon roll looks a little pitiful sitting on its own.
Despite the tiny portion, the fish is excellent – with an almost buttery texture that teams with the sticky rice to create an all-too-short mouthful.
Plates empty, I order it again for another taste of the coral freshness, as well as a seabass sushi and set of cucumber maki. The white seabass is deliciously supple – as is the simpleness of the little vegetarian maki.
The portions are petite but the restriction has benefits – you focus more upon the flavour and savour the rolls rather than wolfing them down faster than you can say “sake”.
Speaking of which, foodies can also upgrade their lunch to include bottomless drinks for £44 – with an array of warm and sparkling sakes to try (plus the essential green tea, of course).
Next up, more rolls, more maki and a few hot dishes – we order the chicken and tofu teriyaki for a larger serving of battered bites, served with more rice upon sleek black plates.
We taste them all but don’t finish – I’m surprisingly full despite my eyes being eternally bigger than my stomach. We finish the lunch with scoops of raspberry sorbet and a delicate arrangement of fresh tropical fruits. For those seeking a stronger sugar high, sticky Japanese mochi are also on the menu.
The Wordrobe Verdict
The portions might not be sumo-sized, but the taste and quality of Miyako’s dishes certainly pack a punch. The service is fast and friendly, with a laid-back atmosphere to enjoy it all within. And, at just £24 per person, this bottomless lunch is an absolute bargain.
Make it happen
Where: Andaz London, 40 Liverpool St, London EC2M 7QN
Wallet: £24 per person for the bottomless lunch or £44 per person with bottomless drinks.
How: Please click here or phone +44 207 961 1234 to make a reservation.