If St Andrews wasn’t already on your radar for its world-class golfing, gorgeous coastal location and internationally renowned university (which is also Scotland’s oldest), then it should be now – purely for the newly reopened Kohler Waters Spa at the Old Course Hotel, says writer Eilidh Tuckett
I spent last weekend floating from room to glorious room in the renovated space, and it’s no surprise to me that The Times named it ‘Scottish Spa of the Year’ last year. There is simply nowhere else like it in Scotland.
I arrived at the hotel around lunchtime (on St Andrews Day, coincidentally), dropped my bag in my room (gorgeous, capacious!) and headed straight for the spa.
The Kohler Waters Spa is home to Scotland’s most advanced contrast-therapy experience, boasting an unbelievable KLAFS-designed snow and sauna cabin that had me feeling like I was in Finland, not Fife. There’s also a brand-new relaxation pool; contrast-therapy rooms (steam and sauna); an ice-cold plunge pool; sensation showers; a full hydrotherapy suite; and the UK’s first Espuro Foam Experience. That’s right: the foam party has had a glow-up. Leave the dirty bubbles to the freshers – this is pure grown-up luxury.
As I sank deeper into the ginger-and-lemon-scented suds, it occurred to me that many of the indulgences we pay for as adults are curated versions of the joy we (hopefully) experienced in childhood. Perhaps someone used to run our baths on Sunday evenings, or usher us outside to marvel at the first snowfall.
The Kohler Waters Spa gives you those same feelings of wonder and contentment, that childlike sense of delight – the Espuro experience and the snow room especially. This is playfulness disguised as wellness – and why not?
The spa itself is designed around the concept of coorie, Scotland’s answer to hygge. In interior-design terms, this translates to grounding warm whites and beiges, tactile fabrics, and cosy reading nooks in which to while away the hours. Unsurprisingly, this is very easy to do.
My book of choice was Wild Swimming: Scotland by Anna Deacon, and I was enjoying her recommendations in those gorgeous surroundings so much that I suspect the only thing that could have lured me away was being called for a massage.
I padded along the corridor after my masseuse in Old Course-branded slippered feet before settling down onto a luxurious, pre-heated bed. I’d opted for a hot-stone massage in the hope of loosening the tension I constantly hold in my shoulders, and as soon as the masseuse placed her palm on my back, I knew I was in good hands. With that touch, she seemed to understand innately what my body needed, and between the heat of the stones and her strong, fluid movements, I could feel the knots subside.
The only criticism I have of the whole experience is reserved for the polyester robe alone, which hung in the spa locker like a threat- “Touch me and you’ll conduct electricity!” Give me a crisp cotton towelling robe over that synthetic thing any day. It felt very off brand, given the sheer luxury of everything else. Even the robe in the bedroom was crisp cotton. That aside, the whole experience was gorgeous – hands down the best spa I’ve ever been to. It doesn’t matter which treatment you choose; you simply can’t go wrong.
There is also a wonderful café and spa shop, where you can pick up little luxuries from premium skincare brands such as Omorovicza, which I’d never heard of but now love. Their face mist is especially luxurious – pick up a bottle and keep it in your handbag for a pre-dinner spruce. I didn’t feel like doing much makeup after my day of pampering, and a spritz was enough to revive and ready me for a cocktail or two.
The Room
A brief return to my room turned into a longer lounge, because it was such an inviting space. I popped the radio on (a vintage-look Roberts, of course) and got ready at leisure, luxuriating in the lavish en-suite and taking too much time applying not-much makeup. If you judge a hotel room on its workspace provisions, then the Old Course is a solid bet: my room boasted a generously sized desk from which I could imagine being very productive – not that I was – but if that is part of relaxing for you, then you’d be well catered for here.
Personally, I’m more interested in a big, comfy bed, a spotless bathroom, and a good eye for interior design, and the Old Course delivered on all counts. The en-suite is tiled in glorious green and boasts a large shower, which naturally features Kohler Waters products. Outside the bedroom window, a sweeping view of St Andrews Bay is worth waking up early for. Watching the sun rise over the sands with a cup of hot tea is hard to beat, especially from such a luxurious bed.
The Food & Drink
Dinner at the Road Hole was a joy from start to finish. The cocktail menu was vast, and I settled on a frosted cherry one to begin, made with local Eden Mill gin and local gorse (foraged!). The starter was an indulgent St Andrews lobster raviolo with prosecco beurre blanc, crispy kale and caviar, followed by steak frites. The sauce was béarnaise, naturally, and the fries came dusted with sooty black truffle.
There was even an unexpected palate cleanser between the starter and main- pure luxury in the form of salmon and lobster tartare anointed in nasturtium oil. It’s not something I would have ordered, but it was a fresh, cold, buttery delight, delivered on a wispy little cracker.
The steak, I’ll admit, was slightly overdone for my taste, but I take full responsibility for that. I had requested medium-rare, but “not too bloody”, and that was exactly what I got: the meat was still pink with a deep flavour, just slightly on the tough side.
I really appreciated that the waiter recommended the sirloin over the fillet, a cheaper option by almost £10, which is a level of honesty you don’t always see. The sommelier, Shoma, was also brilliant: knowledgeable without a hint of pretension (and very convincing). He talked me through potential wine pairings, including the juicy Beaujolais I opted for.
I was dining alone, which I genuinely enjoy. The luxury of reading a full menu cannot be underestimated – choosing at leisure what you fancy eating and then doing so slowly is a rare pleasure. Eating alone also makes me hyper-aware of my surroundings, and not in a bad way; I’m much more attuned to what’s going on around me, and I enjoyed the spectacle of dishes arriving at other tables, the oohs and aahs as smoking domes were lifted from cocktail after cocktail.
It wasn’t until 8.45pm, two hours into my meal, that I realised I was the only person dining alone, and I felt quietly proud. Proud that I hadn’t noticed until then, and proud that I was doing it. After all, why shouldn’t I enjoy the experience just as much as any of the couples around me? I’m not single, but I still find it empowering to do things by myself. Nineteen-year-old me might have hoped, but never imagined, that she would have the confidence to do so, and there I was, embracing the whole experience.
The Wordrobe Verdict
If St Andrews wasn’t already on your radar for its world-class golfing, gorgeous coastal location and internationally renowned university (which is also Scotland’s oldest), then it should be now – purely for the Old Course Hotel. That is the kind of place the Old Course Hotel is: no matter who you are, or why you’re there, you will feel totally indulged and thoroughly spoiled, and it is a wonderful treat. I look forward to coming back.
If you want to experience something similar, I’d recommend the ‘Perfect Break’ Residential Package. It includes an overnight stay, spa access, a beautiful gift in your room and a seasonal dinner at the Road Hole Restaurant. You can complete the experience with a full Scottish breakfast the next morning – and you should.
Make it happen
Wallet: From £485, based on two people sharing
When: Available: 15 September 2025 – 31 March 2026. Excludes: 24 December 2025 – 1 January 2026. Guests staying at the Old Course Hotel can access the spa between 8–10am and 6–8pm.
How: Find out more and make a booking via oldcoursehotel.co.uk
Where: 444 Highland Drive, Kohler, WI 53044
Words by Eilidh Tuckett, freelance writer
