Ever a sun-seeker, Editor Sophie Ritchie shares her in-depth guide to spending a few days exploring Lisbon’s sloped cobbled streets, where museums galore, excellent restaurants and freshly-baked flakey Pastel De Nata are just a short 2.5-hour flight away
It’s no secret that winter in the UK is not for the faint-hearted. It’s dark, cold, usually in a somewhat damp state thanks to some form of drizzle and yes – undeniably downright gloomy at times. There’s only so many snug pop-up alpine lodges and cozy pubs one can visit before the memory of natural sunlight and a coat-less outfit starts to fade faster than a December sunset.
An ideal destination for combatting the winter blues when it all just seems a little too dreary, the sprawling city of Lisbon in Portugal makes an excellent winter’s long weekender. For one, the weather is considerably less dire – this historic city has a record average of 2810 hours of beaming sunshine per year, with an average of 300 sunshine-filled days per year. To put that into context, London receives around just 1480 hours of sunlight in comparison.
A thriving destination that somehow encapsulates the laidback charm of Italy with the charismatic energy of Spain, just a few days in the hilly Portuguese capital can leave you feeling rejuvenated in no time.
Ever a sun-seeker, Editor Sophie Ritchie shares her in-depth guide to spending a few days exploring these sloped cobbled streets and its famous yellow tram network, where museums galore, excellent restaurants and freshly-baked flakey Pastel De Nata are just a short 2.5-hour flight away.
Where to stay: Hotel Brittania
With just 33 rooms, the petite Hotel Brittania makes an excellent choice for any Art Deco explorers. Designed by Cassiano Branco, the illustrious Portuguese modernist architect, its location couldn’t be more enviable – located just a few steps away from the famously designer-dripping Avenida da Liberdade on a tucked away side street.
One of Lisbon’s oldest hotels, this four-star boutique property captures the glamorous essence of the 1940s – its ample-sized Premier rooms come kitted out with mahogany furnishings, dark brown colour palettes, enormous beds, soft lighting and fun details such as welcoming decanters filled with port and recommended reads.
Being an older building means accepting some niggles – the plumbing isn’t amazing and the walls can be less than sound-proof – but for what it lacks in convenience, it makes up for in style, charisma and genuine care when it comes to a guest’s experience. These rooms have still welcomed the 21st century with open arms – expect air-conditioning, wireless phone chargers, a free safe (my porter firmly reminds me to keep my passport well away from the public streets), satellite TV and pampering amenities in the form of full-size Molton Brown amenities and bath robes.
Breakfast here is a hearty buffet affair, served in the lobby bar with hot classics, continental options and endless ‘just one more bite’ pastries. That’s one thing you’re never too far from in Lisbon – something flakey, delicious and freshly out of the oven. For bigger groups, it’s worth arriving early to avoid any passive aggressive scrambles for a table together within the petite space. lisbonheritagehotels.com/hotel-britania
You might also like:
- For an extensive spa: Hyatt Regency Lisbon
- For tongue-in-cheek style: Mama Shelter Lisbon
- For classic elegance: Intercontinental Lisbon
What to do
There are endless activities awaiting you in this ancient European city, but when it comes to a hefty dose of culture, history and art, try these on for size:
1 Visit the Praça do Comércio
One of the world’s most beautiful public squares, the expansive Praça do Comércio is worth a stroll around for its incredible riverside views and ambient surroundings – especially during the festive season, when an enormous Christmas tree can be admired at its best by climbing up the nearby triumphal Arch in Rua Augusta for a spectacular eyeful from above.
2 Learn more about Lisbon’s culture at the Interpretative Center of the History of Cod
Whilst you’re in the above vicinity, visit the Interpretative Center of the History of Cod, a sprawling building that pays homage to all things codfish, one of the city’s most famous gastronomic delights. This engaging and interactive museum is well-worth a visit for both history fans and gourmands, particularly those with younger children. visitlisboa.com
3 Visit to the Royal Treasure Museum
All that glitters is not gold – sometimes it’s glimmering precious gemstones too. A must-do for anyone with a magpie’s penchant for decadent possessions, pay a visit to the heavily-secured Royal Treasure Museum to marvel at the former assets of the Portuguese Royal Family, including artworks that belonged to the Crown.
Housed within an incredible gold-colored box – showcased in a building-within-a-building – this sultrily showcased space has been outfitted with airport-style security systems to protect the extraordinary royal treasures within. From long dark corridors through to the mesmerising pieces themselves, it all feels a little Bond-like – even when sipping coffee in the on-site cafe post-peruse. visitlisboa.com
4 Visit the MACAM
If you’re partial to modern art, the MACAM – Museu de Arte Contemporânea Armando Martins museum displays collector Armando Martins’ extensive private collection to the public, a quest that first began in 1974. Marvel at a mix of modern and contemporary Portuguese and international art gathered over the last 50 years – with further statement pieces awaiting in the newly-opened on-site luxury hotel. macam.pt/pt
5 Visit to CAM – The Modern Art Center and gardens of Gulbenkian Foundation
Another one for the culture vultures. Inspired by the concept of Engawa, an element of traditional Japanese architecture that establishes a harmonious connection between the interior and exterior, architect Kengo Kuma recreated CAM’s original concrete building – increasing its transparency to the south and adding an impressive 100-metre-long canopy with a ceramic roof. Explore the striking exhibitions awaiting within or simply find a good perch and drink the modern interior design in. gulbenkian.pt/cam/en
6 Find souvenirs at the Convent of São Pedro
Ideal for picking up something delicious that also does good, the Convent of São Pedro de Alcântara, initially founded in 1670 not only faces one of Lisbon’s most beautiful viewpoints (the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara) and is a true Baroque masterpiece – it also runs a extremely successful shop operation to help support the convent’s important work.
As gorgeous as the building itself is, the various jars and condiments created by the convent are equally impressive – the lemon curd in particular will leave you booking a return flight in no time. Inspired by 17-century palaces, the convent also houses a chapel so beautiful it’ll take your breath away – featuring 18th-century blue-and-white tile panels depicting scenes from the life of St. Peter of Alcantara, as well as gilded paintings galore.
7 Gaze up at the Murals of Almada
If passing through the area, it’s worth making a quick pitstop at the Murals of Almada in the maritime stations, where an interactive experience surrounding the history and inspiration of artist Almada Negreiros’ 14 impressive murals at the Alcântara and Rocha do Conde de Óbidos Maritime Stations can be enjoyed. visitlisboa.com
Where to eat
Best for… something authentic: Gambrinus restaurant
Positioned in the very beating heart of Lisbon, Gambrinus turns Portuguese fine dining into a fully immersive experience – serving guests with theatrical flair from start(er) to finish. A true culinary institution, with many of the servers boasting more than 20 years of dedicated service to its menus, pull on the glad rags and get ready to enjoy a flamboyant meal to remember within these elegantly traditional surroundings. Dessert and coffee can be a particularly memorable affair, especially for those ordering the fiery Crepes Suzette. gambrinuslisboa.com
Best for… something cool: The Decadente
Located within one of the city’s most award-winning hostels, The Decadente goes against the grain when it comes to dining out. This is an unarguably (and somewhat unexpectedly) cool space, where an open kitchen and sharing dishes challenge conventions of Portuguese cuisine. Here, alongside an extensive cocktail and wine list, they shake things up with the likes of savoury porridge, smoked codfish and other various statement seafood, meat and vegetarian dishes. thedecadente.pt
Best for… a lazy lunch: 5 Oceanos restaurant
With a prime position on the River Tagus, 5 Oceanos combines some of the city’s best seafood with exceptional service for the kind of lazy, laidback lunch that’ll leave you drifting back to your itinerary in an overfed, dream-like trance. Let the servers subtly refill your wine glass like well-trained magicians and soak the riverside ambience in instead (usually aided by a little freshly-baked bread). 5oceanos.pt
Best for… a sweet treat pitstop: Versailles tearoom
There’s no finer establishment for a dose of chitchat and something sugary than the bustling Versailles tearoom, a 1922 gem serving up a glass-cabinet selection of cakes, meringues and pastries in the realm of chandeliers, tall stucco ceilings and marble flooring. Expect to see many a local and few an empty seat – this place is always packed to the rafters, and for good reason too.
Best for… a post-performance meal: Pica-pau restaurant
The kind of spot that lovers of traditional Portuguese cuisine just can’t resist, Pica-Pau is a renowned Portuguese restaurant in Lisbon’s Príncipe Real district, led by Chef Luís Gaspar. Named after a woodpecker-like bird, pair a sumptuous meal here with a local Fado performance – an authentic musical genre that whilst often described as haunting, can be equally captivating through its references to the bittersweet emotions of everyday life. restaurantepicapau.pt/en
Best for… something swanky: Eleven restaurant
When you’re after a Michelin-starred mouthful, beeline to Eleven – an exclusive dining space occupying a building with a minimalist designer feel in the upper section of the Amália Rodrigues gardens.Helmed by German chef Joachim Koerper, devour beautifully-intricate Mediterranean-inspired cuisine with a meticulous and creative touch. Dishes center around locally sourced seasonal ingredients with a mix of menus and surprisingly affordable prices, especially on a weekday. restauranteleven.com
For the wellness worshippers:
Run the riverfront:
Wake up and smell the Strava. A run along the Tagus river is one of the most scenic ways to see this city, offering a surprisingly flat route too once you reach the main path. Expect to see plenty of other joggers, cyclists and strollers too – on a weekend, it feels much like Parkrun, the Lisbon edition.
Visit the Mãe d’Água Reservoir
Designed in 1746 by the Hungarian architect Carlos Mardel, this reservoir was built to receive and distribute the water carried by the Águas Livres Aqueduct. Inside, it’s a peaceful sanctuary to meander around with soaring vaulted ceilings, wide stone columns and a moss-covered waterfall that pours from a carved dolphin’s head into a 7.5 metre deep water tank. visitlisboa.com
Stroll the Águas Livres Aqueduct
Ideal for a winter’s walk with a difference, the Águas Livres Aqueduct is one of the most remarkable examples of 18th-century Portuguese engineering. The main course of the aqueduct covers 18km, but the whole network of canals reaches nearly 58 km – stretching all the way to picturesque Sintra. Book a ticket to the Water Museum to stroll, run or cycle your way along these steep walls – some of the arches are more than 65m high, with accompanying city skyline views. It’s unsurprising that this is a national monument – the architecture alone is nothing short of wow-worthy. visitlisboa.com
The Wordrobe Verdict
There are so many effortless reasons to love a Lisbon city break. From a pragmatic perspective, perhaps it’s the identical time zone, the reasonable flight time and the airport’s incredible proximity to the main action – being just 7km away, that’s shorter than most of my morning runs. But when it boils down to it, it’s this archaic capital’s endless energy, positive ambience and incredible culinary scene that captures one’s heart (and appetite). Set your suitcase down and let yourself get whisked off your feet by Lisbon’s fascinating culture and beautiful scenery – it really is quite a ‘tram’andous destination.
Start the adventure
Find out more and start planning your dream weekend via visitlisboa.com
Words by Sophie Ritchie, editor
