When feeling far too wrapped up in your own life and emails, shut the laptop lid and take a step outside. In Finland’s picturesque Lake Saimaa region, editor Sophie Ritchie embraces living like a Finn for the weekend to rediscover excellent food, natural tranquility and why the simple things can sometimes be the biggest healers
I’ll be the first to admit it, I do portray textbook control freak tendencies from time to time. I research every restaurant menu long before I sit down at a table, I print itineraries like there’s no tomorrow and the inner contents of my handbag suggest I could be prepared for most forms of disasters. Under the masquerade of someone laidback, there is secretly a highly strung person looking at her watch and pushing the human limits of caffeine tolerance on a daily basis.
My summer was not one spent lying on grass or sipping iced coffee at leisure. I traded the usual life of Riley to say yes to early alarms and some challenging but rewarding work projects, knowing from early May that I’d have a few months of pushing ‘go go go’ until I felt ready to drop. I’ve always rolled like this and I’m not complaining – but I was also fully aware of the foretelling body warning signals that would start flashing me just as frequently when my car does when it’s time for a service.
I know more than most that rest is essential to success in all aspects – so it did not come as a surprise that by the morning of leaving for Finland, my brain was so tired from putting in long hours that I barely even made it to the airport itself. I even proceeded to struggle with the instructions to attach my own bag tag.
Yes, a short break from the daily grind was evidently needed. But far more than a towel-draped sun lounger and breakfast buffet would cure this inner fatigue. And when my adapter simply refused to connect to either my laptop or phone when I set my bags down in Finland, I took it as a sign from above that inner rest and being truly present should be at the top of my priority list for a few days in Finland’s incredibly tranquil Lake Saimaa region. Screens off, serenity on.
Chill like a Finn
Unlike me (and other burnt out Brits) the Finns have a far more sustainable approach to work/life balance. Fatigue is not a badge of honour here. Instead, the art of simplicity and simple traditions reign supreme. Once outside of the quaint built up areas, there is a noticeable spasticity of people – replaced with a plethora of lush forest and glittering lakes instead.
Finland’s largest body of water, Lake Saimaa is forged of about 15,000 islands – each offering the same soothing sense of serenity whether reached by foot, car or even boat trip. With an impressive shoreline of over 9,000 miles long, both its small cities and more rural residences provide a traveler with a slower, more gentle pace of life.
Where to stay – a dual destination visit to Lappeenranta and Imatra
You can settle your suitcase down for the week if you’d prefer, but maximising the exploring potential of Lake Saimaa’s vast incredible landscapes and exploring multiple regions is highly worth the re-packing.
Start off here: Lappeenranta
The second most visited city in Finland (after Helsinki, of course) Lappeenranta is a hub for all things explorable. The regional capital of South Kareli, it’s home to boutique shops, fantastic coffee roasteries and excellent tourist attractions – including an irresistible Fazer chocolate emporium located in the Lappeenranta harbor, where an assortment of world-famous Fazer candy can be purchased by the bucketfull.
Perched by the water’s edge (just a dangerously short walk from the aforementioned chocolate boutique) the harbour-based Hotel Lähde makes a great stay for both central location and comfort. Each room is decked out and designed differently, although swish Smeg fridges, Rituals toiletries and fluffy bathrobes come as standard.
Book a lake-facing view to make the most of the surroundings and don’t miss out on a barista-made coffee or sweet treat from the downstairs cafe. On warmer days, you’ll find the terrace packed with locals – whilst gloomier weather brings the chatter inside for the hum of discussion at every table.
The property is divided into the newer Hotel Lähde and original Boutique Hotel Lähde, also home to a mini spa world of steam rooms, saunas and bubbling jacuzzis. Once a summer resort for Russian aristocrats, the spa has evolved to become the modern Day Spa Lähde. If you’re feeling brave, take a dip in the tucked away cold natural spring plunge pool – a dark (but shallow) body of water provoking sharp intakes of breath and the occasional shriek since its original construction in 1912.
Things to try in Lappeenranta
Brunch at the Pulsa Station (Pulsan Asema)
A region brimming with history, many Finnish buildings come with unique stories. The Pulsa Station (also known as Pulsan Asema) is one of these, once a bustling main railway station and now home to a stylish B&B owned by Petra and Lasse Karjalainen. Complete with around 20 buildings, visit to enjoy the likes of an on-site coffee shop, bakery, gift boutique, event house and beautifully unique guest rooms. If not staying overnight, it’s still well-worth a pitstop for brunch for bagels and goodies, accompanied by a cup of truly delicious coffee. pulsanasema.fi/en
Boutique shopping in Lappeenranta
With pretty streets that wouldn’t look out of place in an episode of Gilmore Girls, set an afternoon aside and explore the city’s boutique shops, where a range of jewellery, crafts and artwork can be both ogled and purchased at leisure.
Cake o’clock at Café Majurska
Located in the city’s old town, with historic museums and ramparts for neighbours, Cafe Majurska is one of Lappeenranta’s most famous cafés. This female-owned eatery offers a variety of authentic delicacies, including baked goods, the region’s famous Karelian pies and other classics. With a comfortably homely feel, as if you are visiting someone’s living room, expect to find it packed to the rafters with locals and tourists alike – all usually sipping on something frothy and chatting the day away in classically historic surroundings. gosaimaa.com/en/cafe-majurska
Tasting menu at Restaurant Sumu
Just a short walk from Hotel Lähde, Restaurant Sumu serves delicious, handcrafted food crafted with culinary skill and Finnish passion. Book a table to enjoy a sumptuous tasting course menu, where each delicate bite bursts with locally-sourced ingredients. Blending classic Scandinavian flavors with a fresh, modern twist, it’s an excellent choice for a Finnish date night or cozy meal with friends. sumudining.fi/en/restaurant-sumu
Dinner at Prinsessa Armaada
All aboard! Prinsessa Armaada is a popular restaurant based in a stationary boat in Lappeenranta harbour, adjacent to the Lappeenranta Fortress. Walk the plank to enjoy an array of comfort food classics throughout the summer months and relax in the ambience around. In true Finnish style, there’s even a sauna for hire at the top of the vessel too.
Move onto: Imatra
About a half hour’s transfer away from Lappeenranta, immerse yourself in nature and discover the jewels awaiting you in the serenity of the small city of Imatra. On its doorstep awaits a plethora of soothing activities, including woodland foraging expeditions, beautiful scenic runs and of course, more rejuvenating sauna opportunities.
Stay here – Imatran Valtionhotelli, Imatrankoski
Voted one of Finland’s most beautiful buildings, Imatran Valtionhotelli, also known as Imatra State Hotel, is housed within a pastel-hued Art Nouveau castle that’s been around since 1903. A fun choice for those that love something with character and rich history, it’s perched directly next to the stunning Imatrankoski rapids, which look as though they’ve been planted straight out of a Hollywood film set. Admittedly, if you want pristine luxury and room service at your fingertips, this is probably not the hotel for you. But for what it lacks in lavish interiors it makes up for as a unique base to return to when out and about 24/7, along with hearty breakfast buffet options and an on-site sauna (found at the end of an underground tunnel). imatranvaltionhotelli.fi/en
Things to try in Imatra
Foraging with Creative Kaiku’s local nature guides, Ruokolahti
On this guided frolic, the family-operated Creative Kaiku’s local nature guides introduce visitors to the rich and ethereal mythology of the Finnish forests, where fascinating stories surrounding the local flora and fauna await. A scrumptious hand-prepared lunch can also be organised for the end of the foraging, served in full costume – making this family-friendly expedition perfect for both grown ups and little adventurers.
Don’t miss a gaze at the Kummakivi (Strange Stone) either – a massive boulder, approximately 7 meters long, this giant rock balances oddly with an impressively precarious position that’s been held firmly for millions of years. Much like Finland’s answer to the sword in the stone, many before have tried to budge it – some even with dynamite – but all efforts to-date have failed. gosaimaa.com/en/creativekaiku-ky-nature-saimaa/
Appetite Appeasers
1 Bison burgers at Iloisen Pässin Maalaispuoti
If you’re a foodie who prefers more unusual platefuls, pull up a pew at Iloisen Pässin Maalaispuoti for lunch. This is a charming countryside restaurant known across the Lake Saimaa region for its mouth-watering bison and pike burgers – think simply, hearty and satisfying bites. As well as the famous buns, a variety of local products, delicacies, and handmade regional items can be purchased from the on-site gift shop. iloinenpassi.fi/briefly-in-english/
2 Local dinner at B&B Hiitolanjoki
At B&B Hiitolanjoki, a world of bespoke culinary goodness awaits. Take part in a hands-on traditional Karelian pie workshop with a local baker, learning the secrets of this beloved regional specialty whilst she crafts them with expert precision. Afterwards, guests can also devour a delicious local dinner, prepared with fresh ingredients and seasonal specialities. gosaimaa.com/en/bb-hiitolanjoki/
3 Lunch cruise on boat Emma
The over a century old cruiser m/s Emma previously served as a tugboat but has since been heavily modified for recreational use. With space for up to nine guests in four cabins, those that don’t fancy extending a visit can still enjoy a lunch cruise – the 25 m2 sun deck is perfect for enjoying the beautiful scenery alongside simple but moreish mouthfuls. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Finnish attraction without a sauna – the ship has a wood-burning sauna for guests, as well as a washing room, kitchen and more. ms-emma.net
Keep calm and sauna on
Despite a population of just over five million people, this Nordic country has a whopping three million saunas within its borders. That’s a sauna to share between almost every two people. The first Finnish saunas were nothing like the trendy, clean Hygge-like spaces we know today. Originally made from pits dug in a slope within the ground, the initial saunas were always incredibly smoky, known as a type now called savusauna (which means, unsurprisingly, smoke sauna).
Taking around half a day to raise temperatures high enough, these differed from modern saunas in that they were operated by using a fireplace to heat a pile of rocks called a kiuas. After burning large volumes of wood, users would then let out the smoke before stripping off all clothing to enjoy the heat and the steam. This warmth could last for up to 12 hours, if one knew their sauna stuff. Whilst most Finns prefer a modern electric sauna, traditional spaces still exist.
Best for sauna in Lappeenranta: authentic sauna session at Olkkolan Hovi
The historic manor house Olkkolan Hovi offers original Finnish sauna traditions, including a traditional smoke sauna and a relaxing (albeit messy) peat sauna treatment. Surrounded by the beautiful historic manor grounds and the crystal-clear waters of Lake Kuolimo, this restorative Finnish wellness experience is as authentic as it gets. olkkolanhovi.fi/en/
Best for sauna in Imatra: floating sauna cruise with Saunalautta-Imatra Oy
For those who prefer more exhilarating ways of winding down, book a more unusual floating sauna cruise on the Vuoksi River. Soak up the Finnish heat then contrast the temperatures with a dip in the water before retreating back into the sauna for more. It’s exhilaratingly addictive and good for you at the same time. During the two-hour session you can also try dry suit floating, a relaxing (and giggle-inducing) activity that allows you to float safely on the water while simply relaxing in the tranquil river surroundings. saunalauttaimatra.fi/varaukset
The Wordrobe verdict
A long weekend in Lake Saimaa proves that a wellness escape does not always need to be lavish nor ultra modern. It can deliver an excellent dose of serenity through simplicity instead – walking in nature, eating from the land and taking pride in the authentic world around you. This is wellness steeped in history, natural soothing landscapes and the art of listening to the silence.
I haven’t tried a single spa treatment by the time I step back on the plane, but I’m still feeling fully rejuvenated from the inside out, calmer in my mind and more energised from the sheer volume of Karelian pies lining my stomach. Sometimes, keeping it simple really does it best.
Words by Sophie Ritchie, editor
Start the adventure
Sophie was a guest of Visit Finland, in partnership with GoSaimaa, visiting Lappeenranta and Imatra in Finnish Lakeland as part of Visit Finland’s Chill Like a Finn campaign. For more information on visiting Finland, please visit visitfinland.com
Best time to visit: spring/summer
Where to Stay
Lappeenranta
Sophie stayed at Boutique Hotel Lähde, where a ‘Deluxe Double-Room’ rate starts from €180.48, including a spa ticket.
Imatra
Sophie stayed at Imatran Valtionhotelli, where a ‘Superior Queen Castle’ rate starts from €150 per night at the historic castle-like hotel next to the Imatrankoski Rapids and Kruununpuisto Park.
What to Do
Lappeenranta
Sophie experienced traditional Finnish sauna culture at Olkkolan Hovi. Price: from €15 per person
Imatra
Sophie took a floating sauna cruise on the Vuoksi River – Saunalautta-Imatra Floating Sauna, Price: €220 per floating cruise (2-hour round trip) and cruised Lake Saimaa aboard m/s Emma Price: €57 per person
Make it happen
Finnair offers return fares from London Heathrow to Helsinki starting from £352 in Economy Classic and £948 in Business Classic, including all taxes and charges. Finnair offers direct flights from London Heathrow, Manchester and Edinburgh to Helsinki year-round, with its Heathrow service operating up to six times per day.
VR trains (vr.fi) offer convenient year-round connections from Helsinki Airport to destinations across Finland. A single ticket to Lappeenranta starts from €45.70. VR also provides direct services from major cities, including Helsinki, Tampere, Oulu, and Rovaniemi, making nationwide travel easy and reliable.
