Restaurant Review: Roast

Classic, calm and full of charm. Naomi Williams takes Roast’s new breakfast menu for a taste drive


The Venue


Roast Restaurant, found in the portico of Borough Market’s famous Floral Hall, is the perfect backdrop for dining.

Not only does its menu celebrate Britain’s farmers and producers, some of whom are stallholders in the market, but it also offers diners the best seat in the house to observe the bustling market below packed with tourists and locals on the hunt for their next bite.

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Upon arriving my guest and I were warmly greeted by a host who swiftly relieved us of the countless (but necessary) layers worn to combat the New Year chill.

The large, open-plan restaurant is encased with floor to ceiling windows, which naturally lit the space making for a gentle morning wake up call, along with the smell of their house blend coffee.

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The furnishings are classic; polished wooden tables and chairs, classic white crockery and smartly dressed waiting staff.


The Food


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The menu is classically British, offering a selection of hot and cold dishes to please all. I ordered the grilled Orkney kippers with lemon butter, a favourite of mine along with kedgeree – dishes that are somewhat ‘anti-social’ to cook at home!  

The fish was beautifully cooked and the lemon butter with accompanying charred lemon wedges helped to cut through the stronger smoky flavours of the dish.

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My guest ordered The Full Borough – an English fry with the best of British ingredients – sourced, of course, from the market below.

The dish included smoked streaky bacon, Roast sausage, fried bread, black pudding, grilled tomatoes, eld mushrooms, bubble ‘n’ squeak and eggs any way (on this occasion poached, to perfection).

The fried bread was a real winner – lightly crisp on the outside but still warm and soft when you bite into it. The sausage and bacon tasted of the best quality, and would have been a waste to slather in (too much) ketchup.

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We were offered a fruit plate on the side but I would say if you were ordering this on its own, it certainly wouldn’t break a fast.

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It was a small plate of 6 blueberries and a slither or two of honeydew melon, so be sure to have some toast on the side.  Nevertheless the fruit was fresh and a nice way to finish off our meal.


The Wordrobe Verdict

Roast restaurant was a joy to visit. The balance of sophistication and calm is everything you look for in a breakfast spot, no loud noises and the reassurance that your food is sourced from the city’s best producers.

The menu albeit safe, offers a range of everything you need and the setting is like no other I’ve experienced before.

It’s the perfect spot for a more corporate breakfast or one to bring your parents for a treat before exploring the market below.

Make it happen
Where: The Floral Hall, Stoney Street London SE1 1TL
Bookings: Visit https://www.roast-restaurant.com/reservations/ to book or phone 0203 00 66 111
Breakfast times: Monday to Friday 7.00am – 10.45am. Saturday 8.30am – 11.30am

Words by Naomi Williams

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