Writer Molly Cleary gets a taste of authentic organic dining at Origin City in Farringdon, which serves a menu filled with meat provided from their farm in Argyll, seafood from its sister aquafarm and wine from its family vineyard
The tagline of Origin City is ‘pasture to plate, nose to tail’. While that might not seem initially appealing, this surprisingly cosy and cosmopolitan restaurant nestled in the City is a true treat. Marketed as a combination of British fine dining and old family traditions, it feels welcoming and warm from the minute you walk in the doors.
What’s also present from the offset is the emphasis on the homegrown nature of almost everything in your surroundings. You’ll first notice striking artwork depicting the family vineyard of the restaurant, Château De La Cômbe, which is located in Provence. The rest of the interiors, thanks to the warm hues and rattan detailing, go a long way into putting you into a warmer state of mind, even in the chill of a wintery London.
Across from the first seated area is the welcoming bar space, where a huge array of apéritifs, cocktails and digestives beckon with an amber glow. Though we visited on a particularly cold Sunday afternoon, the restaurant was bursting with patrons and the well-stocked bar was kept busy. And if you like the sound of the bar, then the restaurant’s sister wine bar just a stone’s throw away at 56 West Smithfield will be just the ticket for you.
The Food & Drink
A note on the Origin City website notes that the menus change regularly, and options range from a ‘quick lunch’ to a six-course tasting dinner. As it was a Sunday, my friend and I were keen to opt for a roast dinner, but a look at the rest of the lunch menu promised lots of delicious-sounding options, from the Black Angus steak ragu to the pork casserole.
The roast options are also pretty extensive. We were initially tempted by the sound of the slow-roasted Texel lamb shoulder and haggis pie, but on further inspection, the best option for the both of us seemed to be the aptly named Sunday Feast, which comes in at £32 per person and must be shared between a minimum of two people. The main event of the feast is stated as the black Angus beef, Tamworth pork, and Texel lamb served ‘family style’ along with beef dripping potatoes, glazed heritage potatoes, cauliflower cheese, charred Tenderstem broccoli and Yorkshire puddings.
Before we had a chance to dive into ordering our lunch however, we noticed a delightful drinks cart making the rounds shaking up bloody marys. Once the server reached our table, we learned that it was a complimentary non-alcoholic version, topped with a perfectly ripe green olive. Watching the cocktail creation process felt like a special way to start the meal, and the peppery short drink was delicious.
Getting back to the Sunday Lunch at hand, we ordered with the very attentive server, who was great about making sure that we had everything we needed, including any extras. We figured an extra cauliflower cheese couldn’t hurt and then sat back to enjoy the surroundings of the restaurant.
The Sunday Feast arrived pretty promptly and duly lived up to expectations, with enough plates to fill our table and call for a little rearrangement of our drinks. We immediately got started with dishing and quickly realised that one small gravy boat wasn’t going to cut it, and the server almost instantaneously had another one ready.
After we’d stacked our plates high, we couldn’t help but remark on just how succulent and delicious all of the cuts of meat were. The Tamworth pork probably took the crown for me, but the choice of the different meats and the sheer quality was wonderful.
All of the meat at Origin City is butchered in-house after being reared at the restaurant’s farm on the shores of Loch Striven in Argyll, Scotland. The effects of the GMO-free, sustainable farming practices, were most definitely noticeable in the quality of the meat, which was nothing short of delectable.
The trimmings were working hard on the plate too, with the honey-glazed carrots featuring both orange and yellow varieties, and the added extra of a plate of fine beans topped with toasted almonds coming as a very welcome surprise. I was also bowled over by the cauliflower cheese, which was as divinely cheesy as can be.
It was no hardship to finish off our plates, and the portion sizes mean that you can leave in a pleasurable state of full, rather than bursting at the seams. Instead of opting for a dessert, even though they had my all-time favourite sticky toffee pudding on offer, we ordered two cappuccinos and watched the world go by in the corner.
When they arrived the coffees were accompanied by two gorgeous fudge treats, which along with the Bloody Marys, goes to show the emphasis on small details that are all around at Origin City.
The Wordrobe Verdict
Though it’s an upmarket spot, everything about Origin City was friendly, welcoming and warm, and for the quality, I’d say the price tag for the memorable roast was very reasonable. If you want to enjoy your next Sunday lunch and know exactly where what you’re eating has come from, I couldn’t recommend Origin City more.
Make it happen
Where: 12 W Smithfield, London EC1A 9JR
How: Find out more and make a booking via origincity.co.uk
Words by Molly Cleary, freelance contributor
