Delicious, comforting food elevated by excellent produce and expert technique – Geode is a gastronomic gem that’s sure to shine bright for years to come, says writer Polly Humphris
The Venue
Think Knightsbridge, think bling: flashy cars, flashy people with even flashier pets, both owner and pooch dressed in designer clothes, all framed by a landscape of huge name stores such as Cartier, Dior, Moncler, Gucci, Pucci and D&G.
While we’re insinuating in no way that flashy in this sense means gaudy or showy – quite the opposite, in fact; who doesn’t love a little indulgence? – what we are saying is that in such high volume, this extravagance can all get a little identikit. Cue, Geode Restaurant and Bar, a sparkly new addition to London’s dining scene spanning three floors of a Georgian townhouse that couldn’t be a copycat if it tried.
Fronted by gorgeous greenery that tumbles from huge terracotta plant pots and awnings in a subtle peach hue (very en vogue – Peach Fuzz has just been named the Pantone Colour of the Year 2024) that sit either side of its shining rose-gold front door, the minute you enter the building, the relevance of the restaurant’s unique moniker shines through.
A geode, to save you the Google search, is a spherical, hollow rock containing colourful crystals or other mineral matter, and as soon as you walk into the ground-floor cocktail bar, what strikes you is an air of sophistication. Without trying too hard, the owners have designed their very own Aladdin’s cave – played out in warming tones of gold and coral, with twinkling gems that decorate the marble-topped bar and authentic-looking geodes cut into the wall – it’s effortlessly cool and theatrical without being childish.
Rule number one? Order a Topaz Martini; Geode was created to offer a destination-dining spot in which to relax and unwind away from the hustle and bustle of London’s busy streets, so this is not a place to rush and the Topaz Martini – a blend of Grey Goose vodka, fig liqueur and lavender syrup – is the ultimate aperitif. Sat in the window, people-watching the fascinating folk that mill about Beauchamp Place on a Sunday lunchtime, I could have sat in my floor-to-ceiling viewing spot, hugged by my soft velvet bucket chair – Martinis flowing – all day.
Fortunately for me however, this was an invitation to eat as well as drink, so, glasses empty, we were escorted to the mezzanine floor. A light and airy conservatory-style dining space where the colour scheme moves from shades of auburn and amber to Provence-inspired lavender purple, olive green and sea blue invoking the serene landscapes of the Med, the industrial-chic space is given added warmth from flecks of brushed gold that adorn the walls, and offers diners a front-row seat to the open-kitchen, where plates are finished to perfection on the robata grill.
The Food & Drink
Geode’s everyday menu (and I mean that purely to differentiate from the Sunday menu, which lucky old me was there to experience – there is nothing ‘everyday’ about this glorious restaurant) is a celebration of classic Mediterranean-style cooking, which you’ll find alongside Asian classics, all making the most out of the very best of seasonal ingredients. This uncommon, yet inspired marrying of cuisines came about thanks to the two highly acclaimed chefs at the helm.
Executive chef, Francesco Scala, brings experience leading the kitchen firstly in Sardiania’s prestigious Tanit, followed by Mayfair’s Novikov, and, working alongside him, head chef Yuka Aoyama, formerly of Nobu, leads on sushi and other Asian dishes.
Menu highlights (which I cannot wait to return and try personally) include octopus Gallega- traditional Gallega-style octopus served with boiled potatoes, red onion, black olives and sweet paprika; Sea bass carpaccio with soy-yuzu dressing and black seasonal truffle; and Asian baby chicken yuzu-kosho – charcoal-grilled spatchcock chicken marinated with yuzu zest and garlic.
As aforementioned, however, my gratefully received invitation was to try Geode’s brand-new Mediterranean roast, which leads me to rules number two and three – bring your appetite and wear stretchy clothes; this is the smorgasbord to beat all smorgasbords, and you will not be able to resist any of the delicious, comforting food that you’re presented with.
Serenaded by the sounds of a fantastic jazz band, who seamlessly blended a soundtrack of upbeat instrumental and smooth Sinatra-style vocal tracks, glass of 2016 Fonterutoli Chianti Classico in hand (an expert recommendation from the incredible sommelier who seriously knows his stuff), having snacked on cured salami, burrata and a fresh, warm hunk of bread slathered in rich, salt-flecked butter, we were invited up to the serve-yourself salad bar.
Salad I hear you question! With a roast? Yes! Served more as a side dish, which you’re encouraged to head up and replenish as frequently as you choose, this of course was no ordinary salad bar and was instead a heaving table topped with all manner of fresh dishes ranging from mild, nutty Romanesco broccoli dressed with Parmesan shavings and sesame-oil drizzled green beans and goat’s cheese, to baked peppers in extra-virgin olive oil, roasted vegetable cous cous, tomato and mozzarella, roasted butternut squash…the list goes on.
Each and every dish was as well-conceived as it was flavourful, and cleverly, the addition of crisp, fresh salad to accompany the main event served as much as a between-mouthful palate-cleanser as it did an elevated side.
So, onto the main event – the roast. Given a choice of succulent roasted chicken, mouthwatering lamb shoulder, juicy Italian pork sausage, baby suckling pig, baby goat and roast roots, we were asked to choose three and being the carnivores we are, opted for chicken, lamb and Italian sausage.
What arrived was a sizzling skillet loaded with our selection of meat sat on top of top-tier roast potatoes (crunchy on the outside and fluffy as clouds the centre), glazed roasted parsnips and carrots, and some truly delectable accompaniments including rich savoury gravy, peppercorn sauce and truffle mashed potatoes. Hands down, it’s the best roast I’ve had – not least because of the imaginative extras and the unbeatable atmosphere.
If you can squeeze in a dessert, indulgent puddings include creamy vanilla crème brule, a waffle with berries and sticky chocolate sauce, persimmon cake, and, my choice – a cheeseboard of manchego, Brie, gorgonzola and piquant slices of pickled pair and apple; divine, especially when washed down with the rest of that full-bodied Chianti.
The Wordrobe Verdict
9/10. Delicious, comforting food elevated by excellent produce and expert technique; a polished, professional and welcoming team; drinks to die for; a warm, inclusive atmosphere; and of course, that salad bar of dreams – Geode is a gastronomic gem that’s sure to shine bright for years to come.
The only reason a point has been docked is because, alongside our already generous ‘snacks’, we were also presented with a full portion of lasagne and a pretty sizeable margarita pizza – I love to eat, but even that’s a step too far for my appetite and, although I tried them both and they were excellent, I felt conscious of waste.
Make it happen
Where: 14-15 Beauchamp Pl, London SW3 1NQ
How: Find out more and make a booking via geode.london
Words by Polly Humphris, freelance contributor
