Perched on Putney’s pretty bankside and flanked by gleaming apartments, the new Coppa Putney makes a mouth-watering South London mecca, shares editor Sophie Ritchie
You’ve probably heard of Coppa Club – and if the name doesn’t ring a bell, the trademark trendy outdoor igloos certainly will. Coppa Putney is London’s newest location for the group – so sparklingly new in fact, that Google Maps assumes I’m angling for lunch in London Bridge where the group’s other capital location resides. But luckily, what’s left of my common sense prevails and I make it to the opposite end of the city instead.
Opened in early November, Coppa Putney already feels like the place to be on a cozy Sunday afternoon – I walk in to find the venue abuzz with a big mix of families, friends and flirting couples, who fill the modern and stylish space with the hum of chatter and laughter. My own voice soon joins the chorus after being shown to our table, a snug but comfortable space positioned near the entrance.
Its dapper interior design draws inspiration from Putney’s boating heritage, filled with hues of green and blues to emulate what the Thames’ water may have once resembled in the Stone Age. Much like a pro-sailor, it’s designed to be flexible – offering spaces for everything from brunch to business meetings, with a full-service timber-clad bar for when both get a little too much. Of course, outside on the terrace awaits a number of Coppa Club’s ultra-recognisable igloos, decked out with comfy throws and cushions (plus their own exclusive igloo menu – think truffled wagyu rather than blubbered whale).
There’s a little something of everything on the ‘Weekend’ menu at Coppa Putney – big plates, petite plates, sourdough pizza, fresh pasta, salads and simple snacks. The website states to expect ‘European’ cuisine but the listed sections remind me a little bit of a virtual a la carte buffet (minus the queues of course), with a host of cuisines and cultures thrown in together.
Immediately, both me and my friend eye up the vegan burger like millennial-trained lions closing in on a juicy plant-based kill. Truth be told, I don’t order a burger often… but the lure of a plant-based patty, toasted seeded bun, vegan mozzarella, lettuce, tomato, skinny fries (£14.00) sounds too delicious to pass up on.
The starters sound good, with options such as Seared King Prawns and Buttermilk Fried Chicken, but knowing I want to enjoy every mouthful of the main, I kick things off with a bowl of Large Green Italian Olives (£3.50) and a well-recommended glass of French white wine instead. It all feels rather elegant as I swill and nibble with my guest until the two hefty platters of burgers and fries arrive – and my big cat appetite rears her head once more. I might be more Carole Baskin than majestic lioness in devouring the plate but the juicy thick patty draped in melted cheese is a winner for anyone seeking plant-based meat that doesn’t taste like rehydrated pet food.
The chunky bun makes it even more indulgent – the sesame-scattered domed top is probably large enough to be worn as a hat when the Putney-ites make their way to Henley next summer. The fries meanwhile come paired with a tangy tangerine-orange sauce that I dip the skinny Pommes Frites into one by one until I’m left to wonder who consumed the rest of them.
It’s worth noting that Coppa Putney’s staff are both welcoming and thoughtful – suggesting a different table to another pair of diners to avoid overcrowding the already snug space next to us, choosing an excellent bottle of white wine and being attentive (without an annoyingly overbearing nature) in general.
It feels like I’ve used up my appetite allowance when hoovering up the last of my fries and so sadly, dessert is off the menu. The list of decadence, with the likes of Warm Treacle Tart and Flourless Chocolate Cake does sound rather good however. I also spot a saintly fruit salad amongst the puddings for someone fancying just a burst of something sweet.
I settle for a coffee instead, savouring the chocolate-topped froth of my oat cappuccino until we brave the courage to risk the winds outside and make our voyage to nearby Wandsworth for a further wine-fuelled session at The Ship. After all, what’s a Sunday in South London without a little spa and ‘rah’.
The Wordrobe Verdict
Buzzy and bright, with modern interiors, spaces to settle and a menu brimming with options a plenty. If you’re after a tasty meets convivial culinary experience this winter, park up and put your feet (and forks) up at Coppa Putney.
Make it happen
Where: Coppa Putney, 29 Brewhouse Lane, London SW15 2JX
How: Find out more and make a booking via coppaclub.co.uk
Words by Sophie Ritchie, editor