If you’re a foodie looking for an opulent stay that combines convenience and location with luxury, you’d be hard pressed to beat Middle Eight in Covent Garden. Writer Millie Bound ‘tunes in’ for a night at this musically-inspired stay
Middle Eight in Covent Garden is named after the ‘moment in music where the rhythm shifts and something new takes shape’, and I can’t think of a more apt way to describe this modern retreat sitting proudly on Great Queen Street.
Perfectly positioned amongst the hustle and bustle of Covent Garden – only a moment’s walk from the main square – the hotel is an ornate cocoon of tranquility. Crossing the threshold from the bustling street to the lobby, the rhythm shifts from the fast paced crowds of shoppers and diners to an overwhelming sense of calm.
The building’s palatial Edwardian exterior (once home to a celebrated orchestral recording venue) belies a super modern lobby, decked out in marble and furnished with plush lounge chairs.
The Room
Up at the room, the tempo shifts again. I am staying in the Radar Suite, named after Britney Spears’ hit song “Radar”, which features a distinctive mid-song bridge (the hotel gets its name from the ‘Middle Eight’ or bridge). The suite is more expansive than my London flat – complete with a super king bed, walk-in wardrobe and ginormous bathroom with freestanding bath, marble-clad rainfall shower and His and Hers sinks.
The real showstopper is the suite’s large indoor terrace: a secluded hangout providing a skylight view of Covent Garden’s skyline, with a lush green plant wall and a full size dining table. Perfect for foodies who fancy taking advantage of the hotel’s 24/7 room service and dining in (perhaps in the Boca Terry robes on offer, if you’re feeling especially decadent!).
The room is a gadget lover’s dream: the lights and blinds are controlled by touchscreen panels, and the room is kitted out with some seriously heavy duty air conditioning, providing a welcome breeze amidst London’s latest heatwave. There’s a Sonos sound system throughout, two gluttonously large flat screen televisions, and a coffee machine.
For the spa-seekers (as if the freestanding bath wasn’t enough!), Middle Eight is affiliated with AIRE Ancient Baths, a Roman bath-inspired spa retreat only five minutes walk from the hotel.
The Food & Drink
Back down beside the lobby is the hotel’s Sycamore Restaurant, where I’ll be dining for the evening. The concept is contemporary Italian dining: executive chef Flippo Bellani takes inspiration from different Italian regions. The menu spans fresh pasta, seafood, meat dishes, and small plates. There’s also a selection of pizzas on offer – stone-baked of course, in the kitchen’s large oven. The fire is a focal point for the space, drenching the restaurant in ambient warm lighting.
Although I don’t want to distract from the food, it’s hard to talk about Sycamore Restaurant without talking about its ceiling, an artistic installation of 2,500 hand pressed copper sycamore leaves, suspended above the bar.
Back at ground level, below the copper canopy, the waiter advises me on which cocktail to order, choosing one that’s mixed perfectly to my liking.
For starters, I go with the king prawns; they are juicy and flame grilled, marinated and infused with notes of spice and smokiness. My dining partner opts for the smoked duck carpaccio, and if my prawns weren’t so gorgeous, I’d have major order envy: gently smoked wafer thin slices of duck, with tender stem broccoli, salad, and topped with slices of ripe, juicy orange.
Our mains strike exactly the right note too: succulent steak drizzled with a delicious red wine reduction that’s caramelised and well balanced, accompanied by french fries – my guilty pleasure. The steak is cooked perfectly medium, and melts in your mouth. The waiter recommends their roasted cauliflower, and it doesn’t disappoint. It’s like cauliflower cheese, but not like your mum makes it: flame grilled cauliflower, drizzled in some super truffly-truffle mayo and a generous dusting of parmigiano.
Finally it’s time for the outro, and our deserts end the meal perfectly. I go with the creme brulee, and it’s everything you’d want it to be: sumptuous, creamy, and infused with vanilla seeds. The top is satisfyingly crunchy – always the hallmark of a good creme brulee! My partner goes for the tiramisu, and it’s every bit as decadent as it should be: laden with clotted cream (not too sweet) and suitably boozy.
Hotel restaurants are often an afterthought – but this one truly feels like the heart of the hotel: diners are a mix of hotel guests and couples lured in off the street by the invitingly ambient lighting and thoughtful playlist. For the live music lovers, Sycamore hosts ‘Vino and Vinyl’ nights every Thursday and Friday, with curated wines and live DJ sets.
Back at the room, there’s a complete cocktail making kit waiting for us – with infused gins and fruity tonics, alongside all the gear you need to play mixologist for the evening.
After a lusciously cool, super comfy night’s sleep, there’s still more food to come. Our stay includes breakfast back in the Sycamore, where diners are invited to choose from a continental breakfast or a selection of cooked breakfasts.
The Sycamore’s take on a Full English is delightfully satisfying, complete with maple-infused streaky bacon, proper cumberland sausages, eggs cooked as you like, and all the trimmings. The coffee is strong and plentiful, with alternative milks and syrups as standard, and there’s a selection of fresh juices. The perfect send-off for a day of browsing around Covent Garden’s independent boutiques!
The Wordrobe verdict
If you’re a foodie looking for an opulent stay that combines convenience and location with luxury, you’d be hard pressed to beat Middle Eight.
Make it happen
Where: Middle Eight, 66 Great Queen St, London WC2B 5BX
How: Find out more and make a booking via middleeight.com
Words by Millie Bound, writer
