I dig into authentically moreish flavours of the Amalfi coast at this stylish Marylebone restaurant
There are some traditions that must be followed at the weekend. Laundry. Errands. Mildly erratic supermarket runs. And, of course – the ritual of brunch. Every once in a while however, it’s nice to break away from the predictably bland poached eggs and smashed avocado routine and sink your teeth into something a little less run-of-the-mill.
Luckily, Fucina – the sleek Italian restaurant nestled amongst sky-high stylish apartments and designer-clad stores offers a new brunch menu brimming with Amalfi-inspired options. And, like almost anything Italian crafted, it doesn’t disappoint.
I visit on a slow Sunday afternoon (the kind where lethargic London walkers can be found by the dozen) and settle in to the green-hued surroundings whilst waiting for my friend to arrive. Brunch, if done correctly, is a meal that should never be rushed. It’s a luxury that should be drawn out as long as possible – and luckily the friendly staff at Fucina understand this.
I’m left to sip an Americano idly whilst people watching from the glass and perusing the menu – it’s refreshing to see an offering with oceans more creativity than the usual pancakes, oatmeal and smoked salmon culinary chorus. There’s seasonal ingredients scattered throughout, and my eyes (which are always larger than my stomach) immediately covet at least half whilst I wait.
The food
Just as my stomach begin to rumble with the growl of a demanding toddler, my friend arrives with apology in tow and we waste no time in ordering a varied selection of the European dishes.
To begin, we settle for the taleggio fondue con poached eggs & avocado toast mortadella (£12), which arrives spread out prettily on a plate and sprinkled with crunchy pistachios. This savoury bite is paired with a dish of grilled Italian sausages, ricotta and fig toast (£12) served with honey saba and chia seeds.
The latter is utterly scrumptious – the juicy pork sausage pairs excellently well with the gooey figs. I’m dubious initially, but it’s an unusual yet delicious flavour pairing. The fondue eggs are good too although very heavy – bringing a rich twist to the classic brunch item.
Created by Executive Chef, Jordan Sclare, the new menu aims to give a facelift to the classic weekend brunch with modern edges on the usual traditions. Ingredients make or break a dish far more than novelty additions or quirky names – but here, the quality of food is as good as if we were dining by the salty spray of Amalfi itself.
We finish the carb-centric feast with a round of Tri colore toast (£8) which consists of stracciatella, sun-dried tomatoes, a fat fried egg and lashings of basil, juxtaposing the savoury with a sugary Italian-French toast (£8) topped with thinly sliced peach & Italian lemon sorbet for added indulgence.
By now, the table’s almost as full as we are – although the plates have been licked almost clean. Stuffed and satisfied, we’re even given a tour of the downstairs private dining room (complete with seriously decked out graphite bathrooms) before departing like old friends.
The verdict
Summer might be long gone and its autumn cousin firmly in its place, but at Fucina, the warming Amalfi sunshine can be found in every bite of this contemporary brunch.
Where to find it: 26 Paddington St, Marylebone, London W1U 5QY, UK
Bookings: Phone +44 20 7058 4444 or click here to make a reservation
