Overlooking King Cross’s Granary Square, The Lighterman serves contemporary British fare off the banks of one of London’s most bustling areas. Writer Flora Devenport tucks into their house Sunday Roast
The Venue
There’s something quietly sacred about a proper Sunday lunch – it should feel homely, a bit rough around the edges, but filled with warmth. It’s the kind of meal where conversation drifts easily, where you lean in to catch the last word across the table, careful not to dip an elbow in the horseradish. A proper roast should feel completely unhurried.
At The Lighterman, that easy comfort is perfectly preserved. Overlooking the Regent’s Canal, this airy King’s Cross haunt manages to combine London cool with the calm of a long, lazy afternoon. The staff are friendly without the faintest trace of stiffness; the vibe is unbuttoned and windless.
Sat on the top floor of the three tiered restaurant, the lofty interior is a safe haven from the hubbub of Kings Cross. Off the towpath, this all day dining stop is ideal when the weather’s a little bit damp and crispy, or when the sunshine feels snug enough to drink al-fresco on their wrap-around terrace.
The Food
The Lighterman’s polished weekend menu heroes British cooking, with their roasts only available on a Sunday from midday. The food hits that sweet spot between simplicity and satisfaction. You won’t find overworked plating here – just hearty, well-executed classics. Each side plate feels made for sharing, or at least, for readily passing across the table.
When it comes to judging a good roast, three things matter: generosity, quality and harmony. The Lighterman delivers on all fronts. Each element works in quiet balance – tender beef and chicken, buttery cabbage, crisp golden potatoes and a Yorkshire pudding that soaks up the rich lave of house gravy to meld the perfect bite. It’s the kind of generous plate you’d expect at home, only with a little extra welly.
We added some sides of creamy cauliflower cheese, charred tenderstem broccolini, and the sticky Guiness pigs in blankets to round everything off, the only problem you’ll face is to find room amongst the table to put it all. Not forgetting ending on the warming rice plum pudding for a dose of happy nostalgia.
It’s clear that the menu celebrates seasonal produce, given the quality and thought behind each accompaniment. Whether you’re pairing your roast with a full-bodied malbec, house Bloody Mary, or a 0% Lucky Saint lager, there’s something for everyone here.
That said, this is a place I’d happily take anyone – fussy family members, in-laws, old friends, book in for date night. The Lighterman’s somewhere you can show up a little late, stay a little longer, and leave with that slow, unwinded Sunday feeling.
The Wordrobe Verdict
Above all, the food is uncomplicated. During the week, it’s the kind of place you’d meet a friend for a chicken schnitzel and a cold pint. But on Sundays, it’s all about tradition – down to the buttery swede mash to the cloud-like Yorkshire puddings, the roasts taste just like home, but elevated. In my opinion, The Lighterman is among the rare London spots I’d revisit for a Sunday roast.
Make it happen
When: Available every Sunday from 12:00 PM
Where: 3 Granary Square, London N1C 4BH
How: Find out more and make a booking via thelighterman.co.uk
Words by Flora Devenport, freelance writer
