An estate fit for a (Roman) emperor. Following its glamorous multi-million pound makeover, Sophie Ritchie checks into five-star Matfen Hall in Northumberland for the weekend
There are some hotels you instantly think of when you want an action-packed weekend, and then, there are the properties to beeline towards when a few days of gluttonous relaxation is on the cards. And Matfen Hall, with its roaring fires, rich interiors and slumbering sense of time certainly falls into the latter category.
Just a 30-minute drive from Newcastle upon Tyne, this five-star Northumberland stay combines opulent interiors, endless surrounding terrain and platefuls of poised cuisine to create a bubble of escapism. Reality and routine seem to get stuck at the door, vampire style. Once you’ve stepped across, it’s relaxation from here on out.
Matfen Hall might sit within close proximity to some of Northumberland’s most famed landmarks, including the iconic Hadrian’s Wall and Hexham Abbey, but that doesn’t mean it can’t hold its own on the history front.
Passed down through the Blackett Family for generations ever since its 1836 construction, Matfen Hall has been creating jobs for the local economy long before entering its hotel era in 1991.
Following the completion of a multi-million pound refurbishment in spring 2023 (with further expansion still to come down the line) this regal property retains the same sense of elegance and grandeur that I have no doubt its guests felt when stepping across the stone threshold back in the 19th century.
The grand staircase that winds itself around the entrance hall is the undeniable showpiece here, even with the extensive makeover. It’s this classic staircase that completely steals the show – and should you visit at Christmas time, the tinsel-wrapped structure is even more beautiful to admire.
Featuring a mildly-disorientating array of beautifully-designed rooms (the refurbishment project has involved reshaping and rearranging much of the building’s entire structure) wander the corridors between each space and marvel at the glossy interiors kitted out with velvety sofas and lounging spaces galore. Just don’t be surprised if you get lost once or twice along the way…
The Room
Split across several floors, there are 65 bedrooms to choose from at Matfen Hall, each carefully decorated to emulate the building’s natural elegance.
Think spacious abodes, Carrara marble-clad bathrooms and emperor (yes, you read that right) sized beds. If there was ever a reason to fling yourself across the mattress and into a pile of pillows, this would be it.
Heated to the max (I actually spot my pot of Elemis Cleansing Balm melting rather melodramatically in the bathroom by the end of the visit) there’s no chance of feeling the northern draft here. If anything, it’s somewhat more of the Sahara.
My own room is large, split into three sumptuous segments of bedroom, closet-clad corridor and palatial bathroom. And of course, being located mere seconds from the on-site spa certainly helps too.
The bathrooms at Matfen Hall are worthy of a visit in their own right. Vast, luxuriant and kitted out with everything required for a head-to-toe pampering session, it’s a space to take your time in. Miniature-sized bottles of Penhaligon toiletries sit by the sink, stacks of fluffy towels are piled neatly by the radiator and opening the spotless glass shower door reveals further full-sized amenities awaiting on a shelf. Lather up, ladies.
The hot water can take its time to warm up (you have to remember this is an archaic building underneath the modern veneer) but the sheer beauty of the pool-like bathtub and shower make up for the wait. Two pristine bathrobes with matching slippers hang invitingly in the corner, replacing one’s normal clothes faster than you can say “Where is my face mask?”
The Dining
Matfen Hall features a myriad of dining options, each decked out in glamorous furnishings and a riveting sense of old school finery.
Best for fine dining: Emerald Restaurant. When it comes to special occasions and date nights, book a table at this emerald-hued room for an intimately exquisite dining experience. Foam’s back on the menu boys – this is fine dining with plenty of boundary pushing.
Best for classic bites: Cloisters. The hub of Matfen Hall, breakfast, lunch and dinner is served within the golden surrounds of Cloisters. Located downstairs away from the main action, pull up a pew in this elegant restaurant and enjoy seasonal menus filled with hearty British classics and plenty of locally-sourced ingredients.
Best for afternoon tea: The Orangery. Princess mode, activated. Newly-built as part of the hotel’s extensive refurbishment, a spot of quintessential afternoon tea in The Orangery never goes amiss. Dainty sandwiches, freshly-baked cakes and oodles of natural light – tick, tick and tick.
Best for a night cap: 1832. Whether you’re looking for a pre-dinner cocktail or a nightcap to round off the evening, sink into one of 1832’s many velvety sofas and enjoy one of the many bartender-crafted potions on offer here.
Things To Try
- A visit to Vindolanda: Nearby Roman fort Vindolanda makes an excellent day trip, regardless of whether you’re a history buff or not. Featuring an enormous collection of carefully excavated artefacts, wander through the stones, structures and museum and envisage life a la Roman. https://www.vindolanda.com
- Golf range outing: Reachable by golf buggy, Matfen Hall boasts a 27-hole championship course and driving range, which is well-worth trying out if you’re partial to a round or two.
- Run the estate: It wouldn’t be a Wordrobe review without a mention of Le Jog. Pack your shoes, bypass the gym and head outside for a run around the impressive estate instead. With acres and acres of beautiful landscaped ground to explore, even in the depths of winter it’s absolutely worth the inevitable mud (and occasional squeal) as you land straight in an invisible puddle. Just ensure to remove said trainers before you step back on Matfen’s pristine carpet.
The Wordrobe Verdict
There are some hotels you instantly think of when you want an action-packed weekend, and then, there are the properties to beeline towards when a few days of gluttonous relaxation is on the cards. And Matfen Hall, with its roaring fires, rich interiors and slumbering sense of time certainly falls into the latter category. Reality and routine seem to get stuck at the door, vampire style. Once you’ve stepped across, it’s relaxation from here on out…
Make it happen
Where: Matfen Hall Hotel, Matfen, Newcastle upon Tyne NE20 0RH
How: Find out more and make a booking via matfenhall.com
Wallet: Rooms from £250 a night including breakfast, based on double occupancy.
Words by Sophie Ritchie, editor
